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A festive binge

Savour these interpretations of Bakr-Id feasts and Parsi New Year 'bhonu'

The spread at SodaBottle-OpenerWala.
The spread at SodaBottle-OpenerWala.

Both Parsi Navroze (New Year) and Bakr-Id are festivals designed for gluttonous eating. And while khamiri roti and mutton nihari are a veritable breakfast of champions, trudging through the rain and standing in an endless queue in front of hole-in-the-wall street stalls is not a pleasurable option. Far more elusive is an invitation to a Parsi home for a traditional Navroze bhonu (ceremonial feast). And while those in western India can check into a neighbourhood Irani café, people in other states can only mourn.

Two restaurants, The Bombay Canteen in Mumbai and SodaBottleOpenerWala (Mumbai, Delhi, Bengaluru and Hyderabad), are offering a special menu for those who want the real deal. Tongue, trotters, liver, kidneys, udders, tripe—The Bombay Canteen offers a culinary celebration of various parts of the goat. From the spicy khiri tikkas of Mumbai’s Mohammed Ali Road to Awadhi biryanis from Lucknow’s Aminabad, it’s offering a nose-to-tail feast. Expect dishes like a Kerala-style tongue pepper fry taco, an east Indian kapoora fugia, and end it with a malpua with goat cheese ice cream. At SodaBottleOpenerWala, patrons can look beyond dhansak and patrani machhi and try a fried mackerel, jardaloo ma murghi, mutton masala pulav or even a paneer patrani.

The Navroz Dronu is available at SodaBottleOpenerWala till 24 August and costs 700 without alcohol. The Nose To Tail dinner at The Bombay Canteen is on 19 August, 8pm onwards, and costs 3,500.

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