The minimal and sensual 1990s are clearly having a moment.
During the recently concluded Milan Fashion Week, several designers took a step back in time to present their collections.
Miuccia Prada, for instance, returned to her rich archive and brought back slip and shift dresses with beguiling unfinished touches. Bally marked a new era of bold, unapologetic dressing under the aegis of Rhuigi Villaseñor, who sent out statement-making bodysuits, python jackets and femme fatale-ish boots, along with pieces that showcased holographic shine.
Also read: Versace offers 'goddess gone grunge' at Milan Fashion Week
Donatella Versace had gothic glam on her moodboard with Gigi Hadid opening the show in a bodycon black dress with cutout details and a hoodie. The ultimate Y2K OG, Paris Hilton, closed the Versace show in a hot pink dress worn with a matching veil and vertiginous pink heels. Clearly, Barbiecore isn't fading out anytime soon.
Moreover, it’s hard to overlook the lingerie mania across brands. Alessandro Michele explored twinship by showcasing his maximalist ensembles on 68 sets of twins, who looked like they belonged to a secret sisterhood of Gucci sorority. Virtuoso tailoring in heritage fabrics, head-to-toe sequinned garments, face jewellery along with the introduction of new iterations of the house classics - Diana and Ophidia totes made it a visual treat. Also, the midriff has emerged to be the new erogenous zone with Etro and Blumarine sending out some very covetable low-waist pants and denims.
It seems post-lockdown dressing is gravitating towards self-expression and body positivity. Here are some of the other key trends that emerged during the Milan fashion week:
While Blumarine had ornate crosses embossed on sheer separates, Prada presented some wispy sheer coats worn over black underpants. It was part cerebral, part sensual. Missoni showcased an array of clingy bodycon knitted dresses and there were ample sheer pieces at MSGM and Etro. Ferragamo’s runway had a white mesh dress, which left little to the imagination and Dolce & Gabbana exemplified the dichotomy of opacity and transparency by clashing mesh with leather and lace with sparkle.
Bally’s new creative director Rhuigi Villaseñor had pelvage exploration on his mind as one of the look-at-me knitted gowns was slashed on the midriff and the crotch, revealing generous amount of skin. Some of the Bally skirts too came with dangerously high thigh-high slits. Versace’s noir LBDs came armed with vixen slits, and Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini showcased a few collared bodysuits with slashes on bust and above midriff.
Bodycon is back
After a few seasons of anti-fit styles, bodycon silhouettes are back in the form of fitted slip dresses, shifts and skinny tailored trousers suits seen at Prada. While Versace explored the gothic bride in black lace gowns, which were worn with veils, Dolce & Gabbana collaborated with Kim Kardashian, who lent her clingy, stretchy appeal to their realm of sensual Sicilian dress codes.
While Prada reintroduced some of their archival shifts and slips, Gucci showcased tailoring in heritage fabrics, besides introducing a saddle bag reminiscent of the 80s. There were ample heritage tailored pieces at Boss too.
While Bally showcased some kicky biker jackets in holographic hues, Gucci's twins sauntered around in sequinned twin sets and bombers. There was ample sheen at Dolce, Versace and MSGM, both rooting for some uninhibited sheen.
The Hijab Hoodie is everywhere
Hijab hoodies can be seen across the board. It clearly is an effort to attract the Middle East consumers looking for demure and covered-up glamour. Be it Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini, Alberta Ferretti or Ferragamo, hoodie-inspired headgear was in the spotlight.
Also read: Why Prada played with contrasts at Milan Fashion Week show