The recently concluded FDCI x Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai was a mix of several themes. There were cut-out maxis, mesh pieces and a lot of shine.
Here are some things that we know are not going out of fashion any time soon: Co-ords and cutout details.
Besides those two styles, the fashion event had ample tropical prints, statement colour-blocking, lattice work and tactile fringes. What stood out this season was a fun, evocative menswear seen at AK-OK, Gaurav Gupta, and Abraham and Thakore.
"Menswear has traditionally been too serious, too staid, too corporate. It's truly changing in the global as well as the homegrown designer space," says Anamika Khanna, the brain behind AK-OK.
Opening the fashion week on 11 October, AK-OK's showcase set the mood of the season with a Gen Z take on the bomber jackets, co-ords and crisp white kurtas.
On the other hand, Gaurav Gupta styled the sparkly mesh with utilitarian monochromatic jumpsuits. Amit Aggarwal, meanwhile, mixed his signature engineered polymer shine with stark black.
Here are some other key trends from the fashion week:
It's been a season of risque cut-outs on the bust and the waist. The cutout maxi has emerged to be the season's key silhouette seen across the board. For instance, Alaya F., who closed the show for designer Nikita Mhaisalkar, wore a halter neck romper with cutouts on the sides. Nirmooha's exuberant resort showcase, which drew inspiration from nature and foliage, showcased strappy maxis with cutouts on the midriff. Always rooting for the decidedly high drama silhouettes, Gaurav Gupta sent out a black look, resembling bloom petals that had mesh cutouts on the midriff. Amit Aggarwal's silver and black column-like halter dress had strategically placed slashes on the bust.
While Nikita Mhaisalkar mixed her tropical prints with shine-on texturing in her off-shoulder dresses and twinsets, SVA by Sonam and Paras Modi inculcated surface ornamentation in the form of Lucknowi embroidery and appliqué detailing in their vibrant luxe pret, evoking visions of preening peacocks and gushing fountains. Designer Aisha Rao presented prints with sequins in a statement cocktail sari and Nirmooha's macro-pailletted, multi-hued trouser suit stood out. Not So Serious by Pallavi Mohan's presentation, on the other hand, saw sparkly appliqués, peppered with feathers. Geisha Designs' glistening evening wear came fringed and tasselled.
Clocking in 30 years in fashion and sprinkling their runway with some of the brand's key archival looks, Abraham and Thakore sent out some very covetable monochromatic print-heavy menswear comprising co-ords, shirts, shorts and blazers. Also, worth mentioning is AK-OK, whose menswear had a lot of all-white ensembles realised in sportified, oversized silhouettes. Mrunal Thakur rocked a crisp, clean and collared monochromatic ensemble at the Lakme Absolute Grand Finale by Rajesh Pratap Singh.
Artopia by Limerick reimagined paintings that originated in the 7th-9th century, featuring co-ord sets with a few yardage saris. This vibrant outing, generously borrowed from the miniature paintings that flourished in Rajasthan around the same time. Aisha Rao, who presented TRENCADÍS, had Catalan Modernisme & Art Nouveau on her moodboard. Payal Singhal was drawn to miniature Mughal paintings, which informed her signature PS Prints. Shantanu and Nikhil's ceremonial outing came embellished with Baroque era influences.
Other key trends that emerged were latticed work texturing seen at Varun Nidhika, and mesh-inspired geometric prints at Saaksha & Kinni. Ink stain-inspired prints were the key runway story at SatyaPaul, who reimagined them in a space suit.