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Protective fashion serves purpose at Paris Fashion Week 2020

It was all hoods, scarves and gloves at the Paris Fashion Week, sealing the notion that fashion is a reflection of our times

Givenchy’s scarves. Photographs by Getty Images
Givenchy’s scarves. Photographs by Getty Images

Even as the novel coronavirus spread, the Paris Fashion Week went ahead with its Fall/Winter 2020 edition (24 February-3 March). The style ideas on the ramp were a natural reflection of the turbulent times. Apart from the surgical mask, which many attendees wore as a cautious accessory, protection-friendly or shelter-centric elements such as the hoodie, cape and gloves dominated the runway.

SCARVES

While Givenchy and Balmain showcased a collection with scarves large enough to be mistaken for capes, Dior and Celine went with the lighter, standard-size scarf in different ways. Givenchy’s (above) scarves were snug and tailored to be plush with texture, Balmain’s scarves billowed behind the models. At Dior, the accessory was a hip homage to the 1970s, with printed scarves tied either as bandanas or knotted at the centre of the forehead. Celine’s scarves were woven in a plush way with patterns such as paisley and finished off with fringed knots at either end; the kind that you would want to use, come fall.

Balmain’s scarves
Balmain’s scarves

GLOVES

While the accessory has never had historic relevance in India other than at derby races, this season might be a good time to start wearing them. At Nanushka’s showcase, the gloves were tied up till the forearms, with the strings swinging like ribbons. While Valentino and Lanvin took the simple route with monochromatic leather gloves in jewel-tone colours, Louis Vuitton had a sportier rendition with angular shapes. On the other hand, Richard Quinn’s slinky black gloves were made of latex.

At Nanushka’s (centre-left) showcase, the gloves were tied up till the forearms, with the strings swinging like ribbons
At Nanushka’s (centre-left) showcase, the gloves were tied up till the forearms, with the strings swinging like ribbons

Even as the novel coronavirus spread, the Paris Fashion Week went ahead with its Fall/Winter 2020 edition (24 February-3 March). The style ideas on the ramp were a natural reflection of the turbulent times. Apart from the surgical mask, which many attendees wore as a cautious accessory, protection-friendly or shelter-centric elements such as the hoodie, cape and gloves dominated the runway.

Louis Vuitton had a sportier rendition with angular shapes
Louis Vuitton had a sportier rendition with angular shapes


HOODS AND FACE MASKS

From utilitarian to exaggerated proportions rendered in imaginative and somewhat dystopian, glamourous aesthetics, the hood was reinterpreted in various ways. While Marine Serre took inspiration from sci-fi to present bizarre-shaped hoods (and face masks) for a collection that envisioned environmental destruction, Loewe displayed a more positive outlook in its rich use of textiles and fluffy, feather-topped hoods. Comme des Garçons and Vivienne Westwood evoked odd shapes and sizes and mythical silhouettes in their hoods but executed them in delicate fabrics such as lace, whereas Kenzo kept the theme realistic with knitted hoods. Paco Rabanne resurrected its classic chain mail into dress and hoods, reviving the silhouettes of medieval robes.

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