Paris Fashion Week started on Monday, with a protege of Jean Paul Gaultier first on the catwalk.
As is traditional, the first day focuses on young designers, and the opening show of womenswear spring-summer 2023 was that of 28-year-old Victor Weinsanto, a former dancer who studied under Gaultier before launching his label in 2020.
Weinsanto told AFP his collection is a "declaration of love" to his generation, inspired by fellow young designers.
Freshly decked out in bright orange hair, the designer said people were looking for "creativity, freedom, madness and humour" in their outfits at the moment.
"We want escapism," he said.
Like many of his generation, there is a focus on sustainability, with almost all his designs made from surplus stock from other brands, and inclusivity.
The clothes are designed for "both mother and daughter," he said.
Further nods to the zeitgeist: Weinsanto's show also included a collection created specially for K-Pop superstars Lightsum, who appeared virtually via holograms at the end of the catwalk show.
That digital collection will be sold as NFTs in the metaverse.
Weinsanto said he was fascinated by online fashion, even if he didn't see it as crucial to the industry.
"You can really free yourself," he said. "I want to go beyond 3D."
More than 100 brands feature in the official calendar for Paris Fashion Week.
Almost all are back to live runway shows following the shift online during the Covid-19 pandemic, including Dior, Chanel, Balenciaga, Stella McCartney and Issey Miyake.
But all eyes are on Victoria Beckham, who makes her first appearance at Paris Fashion Week after previously showing in New York and London.
Beckham's brand has struggled to turn a profit despite strong reviews since she launched as a designer in 2008, and a newly reorganised back office is hoping for a boost in Paris.