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Paris Fashion Week serves history, with a casual twist

Several designers looked back at the past to present creations that were about elegance and subtlety

A model presents a creation from Christian Dior Womenswear Fall-Winter 2023-2024 collection during Paris Fashion Week on 28 February
A model presents a creation from Christian Dior Womenswear Fall-Winter 2023-2024 collection during Paris Fashion Week on 28 February (AFP)

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Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri looked back in time for the Dior show to present garments that were subtle yet extravagant. Models wore clothes that channelled the 1950s, Christian Dior’s heyday, with a spectacular installation that looked like a giant octopus spanning the length and breadth of the runway.

Models present creations by designer Matthew M. Williams as part of his Fall-Winter 2023/2024 Women's ready-to-wear collection show for fashion house Givenchy during Paris Fashion Week on 2 March
Models present creations by designer Matthew M. Williams as part of his Fall-Winter 2023/2024 Women's ready-to-wear collection show for fashion house Givenchy during Paris Fashion Week on 2 March (REUTERS)

Matthew M. Williams, an erstwhile collaborator with Kanye West and Lady Gaga, presented a line of elegant clothes for Givenchy. “Yes, I love elegance and the house is a very elegant house. It’s easy to find that way when you’re here,” he said following his fall show for the Parisian stalwart, states an AP report.

Williams went back to Hubert de Givenchy’s DNA and moved in a more fluid, gentle and feminine direction than previous seasons. It was a fresh, welcome evolution from his harder-edged aesthetic. Menswear tailoring in black angular shouldered gowns and coats provided subtle contrasts against feminine touches, such as sheer chiffon that poked out underneath caressing a naked leg, states the AP report.

Also read: Balmain show sparkles at Paris Fashion Week

Lila Grace Moss wears a creation for the Chloe Fall/Winter 2023-2024 ready-to-wear collection presented on 2 March
Lila Grace Moss wears a creation for the Chloe Fall/Winter 2023-2024 ready-to-wear collection presented on 2 March (Scott Garfitt/Invision/AP)

Gabriela Hearst presented a collection inspired by Artemisia Gentileschi, the 17th century female painter. Think long thick statement coats, flared textured pants, A-line puffer cape in ruffled Elizabethan segments and harlequin-style gowns.

A model presents a creation from Balmain Womenswear Fall-Winter 2023-2024 collection during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, on 1 March
A model presents a creation from Balmain Womenswear Fall-Winter 2023-2024 collection during Paris Fashion Week in Paris, on 1 March (AFP)

Olivier Rousteing showcased garments inspired by “New French Style”, attributed to house founder Pierre Balmain. The collection included glamorous post-war styles, flying saucer hats, nipped waists and bell silhouettes. The looks was all about the bold 1980s.

Also read: Dior channels rebellious women at Paris Fashion Week

 

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