The ubiquitous herringbone coat, which was spotted everywhere at Pitti Uomo and Milan, made its strong presence felt at Paris Fashion Week menswear fall-winter 2024-25 edition as well.
Véronique Nichanian, artistic director of Hermès menswear, proposed the idea of “dandy chic” by sending out exquisite outerwear in heritage fabrics. From the opening car coat crafted in herringbone to sharply tailored suits in Prince of Wales checks, the designer offered a fresh take on an English countryside-inspired wardrobe.
Valentino, on the other hand, showcased a supple, refined version of menswear tailoring by applying the principles of women’s couture techniques. Suits came lined with chiffon and a single pocket T-shirt featured round shoulders, both elements informed by the atelier’s womenswear techniques.
Loewe, LGN Louis-Gabriel Nouchi and Egonlab, meanwhile, offered a more adventurous take on tailoring—from pronounced shoulders and sheer pieces to metallic texturing.
Here are the key trends that emerged at the recently concluded Paris menswear week:
Hermès showcased long leather coats and a black shawl collared shearling coat, each piece evoking instant desirability. The knitwear in luxurious fabrics featured a playful take on the argyle pattern. The turtlenecks and cardigans in olive green and ombré violet well complemented the stark black pants and vibrant accessories. The Loewe show opened with a couple of glistening leather overcoats, featuring pussybow collars.
At the Dior presentation, Kim Jones had a section inspired by Russian ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev, who was a big collector of kaftans, kimonos and precious shawls. Jones reimagined his signature Oblique suit, presenting it with Mary Jane sneakers and soft pink ballet slippers. There was a shimmery kimono woven with jewel-like hues that took 10 artisans three months to complete.
After Matthew Williams' departure, all eyes were set on Givenchy. The atelier had their founder Monsieur Hubert’s personal wardrobe on their moodboard For instance, the opening white blouson worn with a pair of charcoal wool pants was something Hubert wore while coming to work. What's more, the show included reimagined vintage trompe l'oeil hair print scarves and an array of cocktail coats in shaggy textiles.
Trust Rick Owens to thumb his nose at the predictable and mundane each season. This time, he presented rubber jackets and pants crafted by Matisse Di Maggio (the non-binary latex lover). The designer made a strong case for a protectionist wardrobe, comprising spike shoulder duvet jackets, besides protective jumpsuits and capes.
At Courrèges, Nicolas Di Felice made a connection between space age couture helmets and vinyl André Courrèges presented in the 1960s. The biker pants came with buckles, offset by deep necklines and circular cutouts that flashed the midriff.w
There was plenty of shine at Louis Vuitton, Dior Men and Balmain. The Louis Vuitton dandy evolves through the American Western tradition of dressing up. Approached through a country lens, suits and shirts are chain-stitched with the cacti, bucrania and bolos of Western imagery.
Workwear silhouettes transform into tailoring in vaquero jackets with hand-embroidered metallic cuivre florals, work jackets with multi-colour sunbeam beading, and suits with pinstripes or Damier chequers created through metal-studding or turquoise embellishment. Closing the Balmain show was supermodel Naomi Campbell holding a gold surrealist bouquet, offsetting her cashmere jacket.