It's been a season of opulent 3D appliques, look-at-me sheercore, corset techniques and itsy-bitsy micro shorts. Designers at the recently concluded Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI in Delhi stuck to their signature styles and proposed a closet of lightweight wearable pieces, which can take you through the day with a few styling tweaks.
It was a homecoming for New York-based designer Bibhu Mohapatra, who brought his signature East meets West aesthetic to the grand finale. Dots, bloom appliques, geometric beading on the floor-length column-like dresses, blazers worn with micro shorts and strappy shifts whispered red carpet glam. Masters of monochromes, Abraham & Thakore, presented Body Language, a smorgasbord of numbers, alphabets and symbols steeped in symbolism. The label delved into the intricacies of modern communication, set against the backdrop of a rapidly evolving digital landscape where technologies like ChatGPT and emojis are shaping the way we interact. From embracing bits of braille to morse codes and letters, the ensembles made some witty non-verbal statements.
SVA by Sonam and Paras Modi clocked in 10 years in fashion and showcased their collection documenting archival prints and embroideries in New Delhi for the first time. From colour blocked stripes to chintz to tone-on-tone surface texturing, their outing, titled ‘Safar’, was a reflection of their travels - real and imagined. Here are some other highlights from the fashion showcase:
Péro by Aneeth Arora brought back the 1920s and 1930s with a vibrant reimagination of Alice in Wonderland: The Mad Hatter's Tea Party in her collection, Cuckoo & Co.
Her floral motifs, medallions, and geometric forms realised in 3D through crochet, laser-cut fabrics, beadwork, stumpwork, patchwork, appliqué, and cutwork were instantly desirable. For this collection, Péro also collaborated with global artisans, including women knitters from Himachal Pradesh and Afghani refugee women. Notable European partners, ANT45, PèPè, and Grevi, brought sustainability, vibrant footwear, and felt top hats to the mix, lending gravitas to this extraordinary ensemble.
Tarun Tahiliani, too, travelled back in time revisiting eras like Art Deco and Byzantine. From the cocktail sequin embroidery to print paisley to kaleen, the designer served traditional motifs, which were reimagined using print and delicate embroidery.
In his Core collection, Amit Aggarwal sent out lightweight, wearable separates crafted from silk, cotton, and rubberized textiles.
Several designers drew inspiration from nature. At Geisha Designs' Profusion, for instance, crystals were used to showcase icy cool colours. Their key silhouettes were a contemporary iteration of traditional drapes, offering a fresh take on the sari. From icy blues melting into resplendent metallics, Profusion celebrated the dynamic interplay of textures and colours.
431-88 by Shweta Kapur stuck to her signature glam-leisure aesthetic, presenting trouser suits, sequin bombers, balloon pants, long line and waistcoats. The designer focused on corset construction showcasing pieces with pronounced bodices. Falguni Shane Peacock presented an evening heavy collection, which clashed transparency with texture and embraced unapologetic logo mania. The FSP motif appeared on bombers, trouser suits and dresses. Their bomber and biker jackets worn with trackpants and micro shorts stood out.
In his menswear collection, designer Pawan Sachdeva toyed with the infinity motif. It appeared on jumpers, bombers and trenchcoats crafted in mesh. A white and red turtleneck ensemble, a peak ‘90s look, brought to mind one Friends’ Chandler Bing's looks.
Manish Mishra is a Delhi-based writer and content creator.