Skin is in. The Spring-Summer 23 collections presented at the New York Fashion Week (NYFW) set the mood for uninhibited, bold and unapologetic dressing. There has been ample flesh baring, statement layering and come-hither, lingerie-inspired details. Designers like Prabal Gurung, Dion Lee, Jason Wu, Eckhaus Latta, Proenza Schouler and Tory Burch used a lot of sheer textiles, knits, scuba fabrics, tactile appliqués and mesh.
Tory Burch, for instance, proposed a summer closet of gauge knits, layered skirts and tube skirts styled with leggings—with 90s New York on her mind. The designer presented plenty of textures, from gold leather to lace to technical fabrics. Of course, her signature slingback mules and flats completed every garment. In the press note, the designer mentioned, “The innovation of luxurious fabrics designed to move with the body—superfine knits, techno satin, weightless jerseys.”
A desire for lightness played out in shine on lamé and lace dresses, sheer cotton knits, and organza overlays, which refined and redefined evening dresses and miniskirts. Several Tory Burch looks featured mirror work in different sizes—all hand-done in India. "We collaborated with our long-standing partner, Orange International India, a manufacturer that works with expert artists across two regions in India," says Burch.
Talking about the extensive use of transparent fabrics and cutout details, designer Aniket Satam says: "There's a strong nod to self-expression and experimental dressing. The pieces focused towards club dressing and brought back some Y2K trends," says Satam.
Proenza Schouler, which marks two decades in the industry this year, had a Latin America-inspired moodboard, with ensembles having flamenco accents, polka dots and bell sleeves. Evening separates in crochet, transparent lace and tassels brought to mind carefree summer evenings spent sipping gin.
Jason Wu sent out an array of ruched slip dresses, tailored semi-sheer separates and raffia-textured ensembles. Bold, statement-making and exuding a look-at-me vibe, the lingerie-like strappy details accented the sensual undercurrent.
Boudoir-style wardrobe was also seen at the Prabal Gurung show, with lace bras and briefs peeking out of tailored separates. Chiffon blouses and tulle dresses exemplified the bustier construction. The Prabal Gurung woman definitely likes to own every party she walks into.
In Dion Lee show, scuba gear slashed with interesting cutouts and engineered mesh were two key recurring elements. Initiating a dialogue between nature and the city life—his capsule scuba collection is apt for a chic pub crawl.
One of the highpoints this season, Eckhaus Latta experimented with a metallic yarn sourced from Italy and created some visually arresting knitted and bubble fabrics. Metallic separates worn with perforated skirts stood out. So did the richly textured trousers.
While boudoir dressing has been a trend over the past few years, it has taken a borderline erotic turn this season. All in all, NYFW can easily be summed as racy, in your face and with an eye on metaverse.