The recently concluded New York Fashion Week saw designers proposing a closet of classic staples but with a playful twist.
Tory Burch's opening look was a wool pleated skirt fastened with a safety pin followed by a litany of jewel-toned satin dresses, all pieces that can be mixed and matched and restyled depending on one's mood and occasion.
All in all, a closet full of clever separates, which helps one make a seamless day to night transition. Think mesh dresses that came with a bit of padding and accentuated the derrière. Burch proposed fall-winter staples like camel coats, sweaters, midi skirts, well-cut blazers, button-downs and straight-leg trousers. She also inspired a sense of optical illusion as her Ts on the handbags looked partially loose, a different take on the logomania.
Khaite, too, toyed with stripped down tailoring, showcasing shearling coats, double breasted tailoring in black leather, and midi skirts accessorised with shearling pumps and gold leather handbags. Most designers stayed true to their core DNA and dialled down the drama, rooting for utilitarian chic.
Also read: Proenza Schouler offers function, less fantasy
Here are some of the key trends that emerged:
Glossy gold rules
Proenza Schouler cut their jeans in glossy gold leather and Naeem Khan opened his show with an array of gilt-tasselled cocktail dresses. Carolina Herrera's black trouser set and gown featured gold Baroque embroidery. What's more, Coach showcased a double-breasted distressed metallic yellow jacket, paired with matching flared pants.
Animal inspo
Several designers had animal skins on their mind. A case in point being Dion Lee, who extrapolated a reptilian motif. Collina Strada's models, meanwhile, sported photo-realistic fur prints and their faces were styled with creature prosthetics. Designer Prabal Gurung had butterflies on his moodboard which took the shape of statement prints.
Play of textures
There was an intense interplay of textures at the Dion Lee show. From knits and gauge mesh to rubber and shaved shearling, each ensemble in the designer's show epitomised a beautiful clash of textures. At Coach, shearling was mixed with jewel accents which caught the light as models sashayed down the runway. Tactile fringes and gothic blooms made their presence felt at Rodarte, which fully aligned with the house's gothic romance-tinged sensibility.
Shearling everywhere
There were plenty of chicly cut shearling coats at Khaite, and one of Tory Burch's key looks, a navy peacoat with a brown shearling collar, particularly stood out. However, it was at Coach where shearling actually made its presence felt. From the reversible aviator coats to the teddy coats, it was masterfully utilised.
Also read: Sergio Hudson delivers colourful 90s vibe at New York Fashion Week
