It's been a season of exciting menswear couture, with designers presenting experimental silhouettes, tactile textures and virtuoso styling. Yes, there were sherwanis and bandi jackets as well, but there was a lot more for those who wanted more than just wedding wear from Indian couture.
Designer Amit Aggarwal in his collection, Pedesis, for instance, explored the world of colours and abstract forms, aligning disparate elements together. His seminal menswear ensembles were an interplay of geometrical patterns and cutting iron-on sheets. Creating abstract forms and extrapolating wax doris and glitch patterns that seemed straight from the future, his strong menswear was a nod to his relentless push on craft techniques and a reflection of his immeasurable ingenuity. "The capes impart a sacred, almost divine resonance, while still retaining a sense of quiet luxury," says Amit.
Moreover, the ensembles also featured cutout details, peekaboo hints and metallic hoops, making them visually arresting.
"We’ve always worked towards creating pieces that can be situated at the intersection between abstractions and art. With an abstract design scheme, one can experiment with metallic jewellery (which we’ve handcrafted this time), derive inspiration from cyborgs and tribes alike, juxtapose tribal patterns with contemporary forms, and use new-age materials with traditional techniques," he says. "The body and the mind is my canvas, regardless of gender. The way the human body can be moulded, shaped, and draped with fascinating silhouettes is my playground. So, the marriage for me, is between fine tailoring, intricate craftsmanship and the human body. I would also want to dress for your personality and not just your visible body," he shares.
As part of their Fibonacci showcase, Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna worked with newer silhouettes keeping in mind their client preferences. There were capes, asymmetrical kurtas and shine on jackets, all layered and textured with their signature 3D sheen. "Having seen a shift in the market over the years, we noticed men have become more experimental and interested in newer and better styles. Also, with influencers around and social media at its peak, it is easier to connect with your clients and understand their choices. Besides, innovation has always been our priority and we will keep improving on it. At Rohit and Rahul, we always make our garments commercially viable for our audience," says Khanna.
And there were some designers who embraced tradition, but added a hint of rock 'n' roll. For instance, Falguni Shane Peacock sent out sherwanis in pastel hues with models' faces veiled with artistically crafted sehras. Moreover, the Falguni Shane Peacock groom and his friends also sported sparkles on their eyebrows and eyes to match the sheen on their sherwanis and tuxedos. This exuberant outing was anything but a typical groomsmen party.
Kunal Rawal's collection, Dear Men, featured jackets with built-in stoles and modular sherwani, which can be deconstructed and mixed and matched with different separates depending on one's mood and occasion. His collection conveyed that men can be their own stylists and have fun with clothing.