Independence Day 2020: Khadi’s different avatars

The fabric that’s historically been championed as the Swadeshi fabric, Khadi is gradually being ushered into more modern molds that have made it more than just nationalist or patriotic. In its reinterpretations, there have also been some that have completely changed the textile’s identity by creating it differently. Lounge lists down some brands who have diversified Khadi.

11.11/eleven eleven – Khadi Denim

Khadi denim blazer by 11.11/ eleven eleven

Even though the brand has been around since 2013, its work of making denim from khadi has been an ingenious change. It uses a 100% pure handspun and handwoven kala cotton that’s indigenous to Kutch, to weave its denim. It is also naturally dyed. Available at 11-11.in.

Buna Studio – Threadwork Embroidery

Emboridered dress by Buna Studio

Started in 2017, Buna Studio quickly became a renowned independent label because of its effortless aesthetic that was the right balance of bohemian and kitsch, without overplaying either side. Among the many natural textiles such as Jamdani and Chanderi the label uses, there is also Khadi. It’s been delicately and intricately overlayed with lightweight, contemporary threadwork embroideries that are inspired by nature. Available at BunaStudio.com.

Malkha – Blends

Malkha fabric

A blend of khadi and mulmul, the malkha fabric was founded in 2001 as part of an initiative to revive interest in handloom cotton in Andhra Pradesh. Malkha’s mission has been to resume cotton-making in the non-industrial way, and so all their garments and fabrics are handspun and handwoven, lending to the textile’s beautiful wear on the body. Available at Malkha.in

Metaphor Racha – Block Prints

Jacket by Metaphor Racha

Even though the label, which was founded in 2011, has stopped using the word Khadi as per the KVIC guidelines trademarking the word, it has still been focusing on the textile. It spins its cotton on the Ambara Charaka and its prints are vividly eye-catching with abstract and geometric and florals. Available at MetaphorRacha.com.

Urvashi Kaur – Shibori

Shibori on Khadi fabric by Urvashi Kaur

Kaur, who founded her label in 2009, has been giving Khadi a distinctively global spin in its silhouette and construction, but her aesthetic sensibility and colours are Indian, earthy and muted. Using natural dyes on the handwoven textile, Kaur’s fascination with the Japanese Shibori tye-dye technique is also evident in her work. Available on Instagram at @urvashikaur.