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What Resort collections tell us about the future of our closet

Sculptural shapes, new interpretations of the corset, ruffles, sparkles—designers gave shape to playfulness in their showcase 

The Louis Vuitton's Cruise 2023 fashion show at the Salk Institute in San Diego, California on 12 May.
The Louis Vuitton's Cruise 2023 fashion show at the Salk Institute in San Diego, California on 12 May. (AFP)

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While we continue to battle the pandemic, one couldn't help but sense a post covid exuberance and optimism in the recently concluded Resort collections. Some designers peppered their offering with a hint of playfulness by adding ruffles, corset details and sparkles. Others had historical figures on their mind. 

A case in point being Erdem, who had British educator and florist Constance Spry on his sketch book. The English designer is often known to draw references from the often forgotten historical figures pictured Constance’s wardrobe during the day and evening. The result was an array of skirts which slightly evoked 1940s New Look. Sculptural shapes were also seen at Proenza Schouler and Tory Burch with designers showcasing nipped-in waist and flared skirts.

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While Tory showcased a two-piece dress comprising a wrap shirt styled with a yoke-waist voluminous skirt, Proenza sent out nipped-waist jackets and full skirts, with sculptural hems accented with horsehair. 

Moreover, designers across the board have trained their focus on shapes presenting ensembles with bustiers, corset darts and contoured sleeves. For Resort 23, the corset show no signs of fading out. Steeped in history and made relevant season after season with a refreshing take by designers, Resort 23 is all about statement corsets either worn around the bust or to accent the waist. Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen redefined the corset by artfully assimilating it in a marigold dress.

Here are some of the key trends which emerged:

Off-kilter shine

Proenza Schouler embedded the sequins into the actual yarn, transforming it into a sparkly, spongy piece of knitwear. Besides the shiny knits, their slip dresses and co-ord sets came in silk velvet in vibrant hues. At Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquiere presented a trinity of jackets with gigantic sculpted collars radiating some otherworldly shine. Think modern day warriors. At Gucci, Alessandro Michele plucked the stars from the galaxy embroidering them in a constellation like formations on his evening dresses. Paco Rabanne showcased an array of shine on silver-to-gold paillette dresses and jewellery bags setting a stage of uninhibited, maximalist 2023.


Poet sleeves and pronounced shoulders were seen at Prabal Gurung, Erdem, MSGM, Louis Vuitton and Paco Rabanne.

While Julien Dossena at Paco toyed with statement sleeves in his signature chainmail dresses, ruffled sleeves were spotted at Prabal Gurung's decidedly high drama pieces. Tinsel sleeves at Louis Vuitton merit a special mention seen on the brand's ambassador Deepika Padukone recently.

Slip dresses

Slip dresses have been a recurring presence across the board, sensual, fluid, floaty and soft. Roberto Cavalli, Gucci, Chanel and Chloe reinterpreted the 1990s key piece in their own style. While Cavalli brought them to life in the label’s signature animal prints, Chanel’s black slip came appliquéd with feathers and tweed textures.

Alexander McQueen presented slip dresses with corset detailing and statement surface embroideries.

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