The recently concluded Milan Fashion Week menswear edition saw designers initiating an artistic dialogue that included art and history.
Designers referenced pop culture and royal figures, making it an evocative fall winter line up. JW Anderson, for instance, had Stanley Kubrick’s Eyes Wide Shut on his moodboard, with some pieces featuring artworks from the 1999 film. Models were seen wearing tights with knickers, hinting towards the kinky vibe of the film.
At Fendi, on the other hand, designer Silvia Venturini had British princess Anne on her mind, besides the British outdoors. From tartans and pleated Bermudas to a fisherman coat and hiking socks, each look from the Italian brand was like a countryside holiday postcard. Realised in plush Selleria leather, shearling and suede, the ensembles brought offered luxury with functionality. So did Canali’s collection Into Nature, which was also an ode to the outdoors.
Here are some key trends that emerged at the five-day fashion week, which ended on 16 January:
While hues of green, blue and burgundy punctuated most of the collections, black tailoring was the most prominent. Gucci's creative director Sabato de Sarno offered a black long line car coat accessorised with Ancora red Jackie bag and matching gloves. Dolce & Gabbana, on the other hand, focused on sleek and polished tailoring in head to toe black, with an array of coats and tuxedos.
Canali showcased impeccably tailored outerwear, peacoats and Sahariana jackets in textured fabrics like bouclé, alpaca and double cashmere. Ralph Lauren extrapolated tweeds and wool in checks inspired by horse blankets. Tod's unveiled Pashmy, a water-resistant suede that was reimagined into a bomber. Giorgio Armani's show, meanwhile, featured relaxed tailoring in pin-striped, herringbone and check fabrics.
Evening pieces were peppered with tactile texturing—from Emporio Armani’s post-dark glam double-faced pieces smothered with shimmery crystals to Brioni’s cocktail jackets embellished with pearlescent sequins.
Looks like tank tops aren’t going out of fashion anytime soon. Fendi presented a range of covetable tanks layered on polos, while Gucci offered a sequined version.
Manish Mishra is a Delhi-based writer and content creator.