Fashion shows around the world, including India, this year have made one thing clear: Bare, glowy beauty is here to stay. They have, however, also indicated the rise of mini trends.
Daniel Bauer, the man behind all the make-up at the recent Lakmé Fashion Week, organised in collaboration with the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), says “we see a breakaway from the classics, reinterpreting them for a much younger audience. Liners are out and graphic creations are in, classic red lips are out and ombré and overdrawn are everywhere.” A new generation of designers and make-up lovers “are breaking the rules together to make beauty more democratic and individualistic.... Why go smoky or liner when you can go both? Supernatural skin is the way forward; make-up is in the most beautiful and wonderful place right now. Play and stand out, not blend in,” he says.
We asked celebrity make-up artists Ridhima Sharma and Taskeen Chunawala to share how to get some of the trending looks.
Deconstructed smoky eyes
Of the many versions seen on the ramp, Dior’s deconstructed smoky eye was gentle and different. “No need to be scared of the smoky any more. You can even goof up and create something new by just using one or two products. You can either create this using a kohl pencil or by using a dark pigmented eyeshadow,” says Sharma. The Dior waterproof eyeliner, Trinidad Black 094, is perfect for creating this eye because it has a small, smudgy brush at the back, says Sharma. “Don’t be afraid to create your own designs and shapes,” she says.
From Carolina Herrera to Victoria Beckham, colourful eyes are having a moment. The look at Anna Sui screams “get your Pat McGrath palette”, says Sharma. Pair this look with clean skin and nude lips and pick the brightest pops of colour. “Use a bright colour on your eyelid, go in with a different colour on the under-eye. Give definition to your lash line with a coloured liner and smudge it out. Highlight your inner corner with a coloured, glittery shadow. You can use a black mascara to make the eye more vivid,” says Sharma.
This look goes beyond dewy skin, with way more highlighter and high-shine skin that almost has a light-reflecting finish. “Ethereal glow is fairy-like skin and you can get creative with glitter, cream and shimmer highlights and blush by placing them on the areas of your face that catch the light. Start by prepping your skin, you can layer up your moisturisers and face oils depending on your skin type,” says Chunawala.
You could also mix a little bit of your liquid highlighter in your skin oil and massage on to your face in upward motions. Add some liquid highlight on the high points of your face (cheekbones, Cupid’s bow, tip of the nose, chin, inner corner of the eyes), followed by a lightweight and water-based foundation. You can go over the high points with some petroleum jelly or skin balm and small amounts of powder highlight to set the cream products. Avoid any shine around the nose and forehead, for it can make the skin look oily; you could, instead, powder these areas lightly, Chunawala suggests.
This look can be achieved with darker shades like plum, red and green; you don’t have to stick to black. Outline the lips with a dark shade of lip pencil and fill in the lips with a lipstick of the same colour. If you want, you can outline the lips with black and fill in a dark colour to create an ombré effect. “You could also try a metallic, glitter or even glossy finish to achieve this look, just make sure to use a dark colour of lipstick. You can complete the look with some dark eye make-up or keep everything minimal to bring the focus to your lips,” says Chunawala.
“Vinyl lips are somewhere between lipstick and lip gloss, with the coverage of lipstick and high shine of gloss. You can keep the rest of your make-up matte to keep the focus on your lips. Start by prepping your lips with a mild lip scrub, followed by generous amounts of lip balm. Dab the excess product and outline the lips with a lip pencil,” says Chunawala. You could also outline with a darker lip colour to create an ombré lip. Fill it in with a creamy matte or liquid lipstick. Layer with high-shine lip gloss. You can try the look in neutral colours but the vinyl effect looks best in bold shades, adds Chunawala.
Dhara Vora Sabhnani is a Mumbai-based journalist.